Once you are finished building your EVA Foam prop or costume the next logical step is painting it. But before you can do any painting, the surface of the EVA Foam has to be prepared. If you don´t properly Seal your EVA Foam before and after painting, then your Paint job may not last very long. So after reading this article, you will know how to Prepare Foam for painting, how to Seal Foam, what colors to use, and how to Protect your Paint Job permanently. So how do you paint EVA Foam?
EVA foam has to be sealed before you paint it. There are several ways to seal EVA foam but the most reliable way to Seal Foam is using either Flexbond or Plasti Dip. After sealing, the foam can be painted with acrylic paint or with an Airbrush. After painting, you can choose to Seal your Project with a Mat Sealer or a Varnish.
Seal the EVA Foam
Before you start Painting the EVA Foam you have to Seal it. I have another article, that goes more into depth about Sealing EVA Foam including a step-by-step example, but I will give you the short version here.
There are multiple ways to Seal EVA Foam. You have to choose the right way depending on your project.
Before you Seal your foam you first have to Heat Seal your EVA Foam, and make sure, that everything, including the edges of your foam, are smooth. This isn´t always necessary but especially if you are working with a very low-density Foam it is better to Heat Seal the Foam before Sealing it with PlastiDip, Flexbond, or white crafts glue.
Heat Sealing is done by simply using a heat gun to gently heat up the foam. This will “close” the surface of the EVA Foam to prepare it for Sealing and Painting later on.
If your Prop is not moving and does not bend (for example a solid armor) then you can seal your Foam with simple white crafts glue or even gesso. More on that in my “How to seal EVA foam” guide.
But if your Prop can be bent or twisted, for example, a wearable armor piece, then I would recommend Sealing it with Plasti Dip or Flexbond.
Plasti Dip will protect your foam from cracks, creases, and other damage, that may occur when Foam is deformed in any way.
Tips for Painting EVA Foam
Here are some tips that can help you improve your painting skills.
1. Use Contrasting Colors
A helpful reference to have on hand is the color wheel.
Contrasting colors are those located on opposite sides of the color wheel; for instance, red is on the opposite of blue, making them contrasting colors.
Utilizing a contrasting color can enhance details and make them stand out, which is particularly effective when working with multiple base colors.
For example, if your prop features neighboring base colors like blue and green, a suitable contrasting color would be pink, as it is precisely opposite to both blue and green on the color wheel.
2. Use Reference Images
Reference images play a crucial role not only in the construction of your prop but also in its painting process.
Gather images of the materials you want your prop to emulate. For instance, if you aim to create the appearance of old metal armor, collect images of weathered metal items. Look at details such as colors, stains, rust, dirt, scratches, and more. Consider how you can replicate these features, which will be discussed further in this chapter.
As an example of using references in painting a prop:
I crafted a lamp from EVA foam and aimed to give it the appearance of aged, rusted copper. Referencing images showed me that copper often has dark stains and oxidations with a beautiful turquoise hue, particularly near crevices. I replicated these elements resulting in this outcome.
3. Nothing is Ever Just One Color
A significant mistake I made when I began was painting props with just one base color. However, this approach results in a flat and one-dimensional appearance.
In reality, nothing is monochromatic. Take wood, for instance; it’s not simply brown. Wood can have a bluish tint in shadowed areas, a greenish tint when aged, and various other nuances.
Here is an example of when I painted EVA foam to resemble wood. In this case, I incorporated brown, blue, light brown, purple, and green to capture the multifaceted tones found inside woods.
4. Paint Shadows and Highlights
While it might seem weird initially, I assure you it becomes logical once I explain it. Enhancing the realism of a prop involves painting areas where natural shadows would fall with darker colder colors and highlighting parts where light naturally hits the surface with lighter, warmer shades.
However, it’s crucial not to overdo this technique, as doing so can yield the opposite effect.
The practice of painting light and shadow is a common technique in miniature painting. It aims to simulate a natural light source and is often used to render small figures more realistically.
Adding Effects With a Sponge
I personally love using a sponge to introduce texture and effects to my props. Tear a sponge into pieces and dip the textured side into acrylic paint. Then, apply the paint with the sponge to add some texture to the prop. This technique was used to paint the oxidized sections of this copper lamp.
Grime and Dirt Effect
You can also use the sponge method to add grime and dirt effects to your prop.
Speed paint is amazing for this as it only tints areas a little bit when applied with a sponge. I used a sponge and some speed paint to add some grime to this copper lantern.
Dry Brushing
Dry brushing is a painting technique involving the application of paint with a soft brush in a manner that ensures the paint adheres primarily to raised areas or edges. This method is very effective for adding highlights and edge lighting.
To use dry brushing, you’ll need a very soft, large brush, some water, and acrylic paint.
- Moisten the brush with water and then dip it into the acrylic paint.
- Applying the paint directly at this stage won’t yield the desired effect. First, remove some paint from the brush by painting on scrap paper.
- Once only a modest amount of paint remains on the brush, start dry brushing your prop. If done correctly, the paint will only adhere to the elevated regions of the prop.
Adding a Chip Effect With Hairspray
This technique is excellent for achieving a chipped paint effect.
You will need regular hairspray, acrylic paint, an old toothbrush, and matte acrylic sealer.
1. Apply a Base Coat
Start by applying a base coat of paint to the prop, serving as the color revealed under the chipped paint later on. A metallic effect paint is often used for this step.
2. Apply Hairspray
Once the acrylic paint has dried, generously apply hairspray over the same area and let it dry for a minimum of 5 minutes.
3. Apply Another Coat of Paint
Proceed to apply another layer of paint to the treated area. This layer will be the one that chips away in the next step. Let this layer dry before moving on.
It’s best to use spray paint for this, in my experience. You can also use regular acrylic paint but I always had a hard time scratching the paint off again. Whereas when I used spray paint it was always easier to create the chipped paint effect.
4. Create the Chipped Paint Effect
Now comes the fun part. Use an old toothbrush or a wire brush to scratch over the surface. Some of the top coat of paint will chip off, while the first coat of paint is protected by the hairspray.
5. Seal the Paint
To preserve the final layer of paint and prevent further chipping, apply a matte acrylic sealer to the entire treated area. Failing to do so may result in continued chipping.
Make EVA Foam Look Like Leather
Replicating leather can be a little difficult. I personally still struggle with this. The best tip I can give you is to look at reference images of old worn leather and try to copy the patterns, grime, wear, and tear of the leather.
1. Apply a Base Coat
First, add a base coat of paint to the EVA foam piece. For leather, I usually start with a lighter brown color.